Firescaping: Protecting Your Home from Wildfires in Pagosa Country
By Suzanne Matthiessen, Master Gardener, March 2006


For those of us that lived in Pagosa Country during the summer of 2002, the drought conditions and its impact locally is not easily forgotten. Although our area was not ravaged by wildfires to the degree it was in other parts of Colorado and the West, the potential was very real. In June 2002 the human-caused Hayman Fire in the Pike-San Isabel National Forest, 30 miles southwest of Denver, destroyed more than 137,000 acres and 600 structures. The Missionary Ridge Fire near Lake Vallecito, apparently caused by a carelessly dropped cigarette, burned 73,391 acres and destroyed 83 structures, and a similar situation could have easily happened here. Water restrictions were in place for most of the summer, and meetings were held in Pagosa to advise residents about what to do in case a large fire did break out. (Continued below...)

Bayfield, CO July 4, 2002 -- A home on the western shore of Vallecito Lake, destroyed by the Missionary Ridge fire. Photo: Bryan Dahlberg / FEMA

It was during that summer that most people first heard the term "firescaping." As Pagosa Country grows and homes adjacent to the San Juan National Forest area are becoming increasingly desirable, so does the need for homeowners to plan a landscaping strategy in the event we experience another dry summer somewhere down the road.

Firescaping basically means creating fire-defensible non-burn zones around your home and outbuildings. When a wildfire comes through, it takes everything in its path. Homes can become consumed by fire in a rapid domino-falling effect, so even if you are not right next to the Forest, you can be part of the chain of homes that wildfires can ravage so quickly that there is sometimes nothing firefighters can do to stop it fast enough. Creating a defensible space will not make your property invulnerable to wildfires, but it will improve the ability of firefighters to defend structures if one occurs, and will improve a structure's ability to survive a low intensity wildfire in case firefighters cannot reach your home quickly.

When we have a long period without moisture, vegetation quickly dries out and can be ignited by a careless human being or a thunderstorm or even a vehicle's exhaust system. Don't count on everyone following "no campfires – no smoking in the woods" restrictions if they are put into place, and never think that Mother Nature wouldn't strike close to home.

All homeowners should already have a firescaping plan, but the reality is, a high number of residents in Pagosa Country don't. After the dry summer of 2002, even though the memory still rings clearly in everyone's head, a common tendency was to get lax about creating a defensible space when mountain snowpack was high and the monsoons returned. However, now is the time to take care of the situation well ahead of another dry summer season, be it this year or a couple years from now. As we all learned in 2002, it's not "if" but "when."

When creating a firescaping plan for your residence, you need to create three distinct defensible zones. There is debate as to how far out each zone should extend, but I'd advise erring on the side of too much as opposed to too little.

Zone One involves clearing the 15 - 30-foot area surrounding your house and outbuildings. Remove all trees and brush and scrub oak that could easily lead a fire to structures. Although many people love to plant junipers and other evergreens close to the house, they can become fast burning fire fuels. It's advisable to plant spruce and pine trees 30 feet from a home. If you already have an existing tree within Zone One, the area around it must be cleared away and it should be considered part of the structure. Do not place fire-prone plants on a sloped area, as that will just create a direct fire path to the house. Remove all tree branches within 10-15 feet of chimneys and stovepipes. Create fuel breaks wherever possible with concrete or brick patios, wide stone pathways, fountains and non-flammable fences. Lay down rock, gravel, brick and paving in wide-open areas. Rake up any drifting dry pine needles and leaves regularly and remove them from roofs and gutters. Move propane tanks and firewood piles away from Zone One. Be aware that wood decks can be highly combustible.

Zone Two moves out another 70 - 200 feet from the building and is called the "mid-zone," designed to reduce the intensity of any fire approaching your home. The lower limbs of trees should be pruned to 10 – 15 feet above the ground, or half the height of the tree, whichever is least. On hillsides, keep plantings far apart. Trim away dead material from all natural vegetation closest to any buildings.

Zone Three is ideally no closer than 100 feet from your house. Thin trees so their crowns are apart by at least 10 feet. Prune branches to a height of 10 feet from the ground. The goal is to keep a fire from "laddering," the term used when burning low dry brush and grasses ignite lower tree branches, and then those flaming branches climb up the tree and jump to the crown. It is at this stage when fires become out of control.

In addition, when a wildfire occurs, the first few minutes are the most critical for saving your home. Firefighters must be able to immediately locate and safely travel to your house in order to effectively protect it. Single lane roads or driveways should have turnouts at regular intervals with enough space to allow emergency vehicles and cars to pass through. Streets and driveways should not be too steep or have sharp curves along them as this can prevent emergency equipment from gaining access to your home. An accessible water supply is imperative for the fire department to protect any threatened houses or extinguish a burning one.

Also, refuel your garden equipment carefully and store and use flammable liquids properly, use an astray if you smoke outside, dispose cuttings and debris promptly and wisely, observe local regulations regarding the clearing and burning of vegetation, use garden trellises made of non-flammable materials, and make sure all escape routes are clear.

It is suggested that you landscape your home with fire-resistant plants, but bear in mind that when conditions are very dry, no plant is fireproof. Although this list is by no means all-inclusive, some plants that are grow well in Pagosa Country and are commonly referred to as "fire-resistant" include:

Perennials: Coreopsis, Lavender, Artemesia, Creeping phlox, Sage, Aster, Daylily, Sedum, Bee balm, Lupine, Shasta daisy, Black-eyed Susan, Snow-in-summer, Blanket flower, Hen and chicks, Penstemon, Dianthus, Thyme, Iris, Poppy, Columbine, Yarrow, Echinacea, Coral bells, Lamb's ear and Red-hot poker.

Shrubs and trees: Potentilla, Cotoneaster, Ash, Aspen, Butterfly bush, Lilac, Cherry, Cottonwood, Crabapple, Maple, Oak, Spirea, Plum, and Viburum.

Related Article: Forest Fires: The Forest Service's Catch 22

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